Arctic Explorations in the Years 1853, '54, '55

The Second and Last
United States Grinnell Expedition
in Search of
Sir John Franklin
by
Dr. Elisha Kent Kane, M.D., U.S.N

 

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With a biographical sketch of the author by

Prof. Charles W. Shileds, D.D., of

Princeton College, N.J.

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Copyright 1868 by T.L. Kane

Published by R.W. Bliss and Company 1869
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Early Explorations of the Arctic

The early explorations of the Arctic were like no other explorations. Not only were the explorers faced with the usual constant hardships and dangers, such as drowning, or starving, or scurvy, or being lost, or being killed, or maimed, and, in some cases, even eaten (by animals and humans), they faced the very real prospect of freezing to death.

And how about isolation ? Could you imagine being on a tiny, crowded wooden ship, stuck in the ice for months at a time, and sometimes years at a time ? And it's not like everyone took a bath every day; or that there was a huge variety of food; there was no cable TV, and no Internet. No mail, no email.

If the ship survived, you would eventually sail away, but, sometimes the ship was crushed by the ice, and you had to make your way to land, or perish, as many did. (Dr. Kane and his men hiked overland for 82 days when their ship was destroyed).

And it's not like these explorations had the promise of riches to those who returned. I mean, a trip to the Spice Islands with Captain Cook could enrich a sailor for life. And there were no prolonged visits to Fiji, or the Hawaiian Islands, etc, for rest and relaxation.

To me, the Arctic Explorers had to endure the worst hardships. Which, to me, makes it even more amazing that Dr. Kane had volunteered several times to participate in such expeditions.

He was an adventurer, at heart, before he ever explored the Arctic, so I guess several trips to the Arctic seemed to suit him just fine. And what is even more astonishing, is he had a somewhat fragile constitution, and he was often very ill, even near death, during these trips.

He was obviously a valuable asset on these expeditions. As a doctor, he did care for the men, and did his best to minister to their needs and wants. There is much affection toward him, to this end.

Even though he died at the ripe young age of 37, Dr. Kane was a much revered hero of his time; much more so than our modern society recognizes.

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Table of Contents

CHAPTER I.
Organization — Equipment — St. John's — Baffin's Bay — Sounding

CHAPTER II
Fiskernaes — The Fishery — Mr. Lassen — Hans Christian — Lichtenfels — Sukkertoppen

CHAPTER III
Coast of Greenland — Swarte-huk — Last Danish Outposts — Melville Bay
In the Ice — Bears — Bergs — Anchor to a Berg Midnight Sunshine

CHAPTER IV
Boring the Floes — Successful Passage through Melville Bay — Ice-Navigation — Passage of the Middle Pack — The North Water.

CHAPTER V
Crimson Cliffs of Beverley — Hakluyt and Northumberland — Red Snow — The Gates of Smith's Straits — Cape Alexander — Cape Hatherton — Farewell Cairn — Life-boat Depot — Esquimaux Ruins found — Graves — Flagstaff Point

CHAPTER VI
Closing with the Ice — Refuge Harbor — Dogs — Walrus — Narwhal — Ice-hills — Beacon-cairn — Anchored to a Berg — Esquimaux Huts — Peter Force Bay — Cape Cornelius Grinnell — Shallows — A Gale — The recreant Dogs

CHAPTER VII
The Eric on a Berg — Godsend Ledge — Holding on — Adrift — Scudding Towed by a Berg — Under the Cliffs — Nippings — Aground — Ice-pressure — At rest

CHAPTER VIII
Tracking Inspecting a Harbor — The Musk-ox — Still Tracking — Consultation — Warping Again — Aground near the Ice-foot A Breathing-spell — The Boat-expedition — Departure

CHAPTER IX
The Depot journey — The Ice-belt — Crossing Minturn River — Skeleton Musk-ox — Crossing the Glacier — Portage of Instruments — Excessive Burden — Mary Minturn River — Fording the River — Thackeray Headland — Cape George Russell — Return to the Brig — The Winter Harbor

CHAPTER X
Approaching Winter — Storing Provisions — Butler Storehouse — Sunday at Rest — Building Observatory — Training the Dogs — The Little Willie — The Road — The Faith — Sledging — Reconnoissance — Depot-party

CHAPTER XI
The Observatory — Thermometers — The Rats — The Brig on Fire Ancient Sledge-tracks — Esquimaux Huts — Hydrophobia — Sledge-driving Musk-ox Tracks — A Sledge-party

CHAPTER XII
Leaping a Chasm — The Ice-belt — Cape George Russell — Camp on the Floes — Return of Depot-party — Bonsall's Adventure — Results — An Escape — The Third Cache — McGary Island

CHAPTER XIII
Walrus-holes — Advance of Darkness — Darkness — The Cold — "The Ice-blink" — Fox-chase — Esquimaux Huts — Occultation of Saturn — Portrait of Old Grim

CHAPTER XIV
Magnetic Observatory — Temperatures — Returning Light — Darkness and the Dogs — Hydrophobia — Ice-changes — The Ice-foot — The Ice-belt — The Sunlight — March

CHAPTER XV
Arctic Observations — Travel to Observatory — Its Hazards — Arctic Life — The Day — The Diet — The Amusements — The Labors — The Temperature — The "Eis-fod" — The Ice-belt — The Ice-belt encroaching — Expedition preparing Good-bye — A Surprise — A second Good-bye

CHAPTER XVI
Preparation — Temperatures — Adventure — An Alarm — Party on the Floes — Rescue-party — Lost on the Floes — Party found — Return — Freezing — Returning Camp — A Bivouac — Exhausted — Escape — Consequences

CHAPTER XVII.
Baker's Death — A Visit — The Esquimaux — A Negotiation — Their Equipment — Their Deportment — A Treaty — The Farewell — The Sequel — Myouk — His Escape — Schubert's Illness.

CHAPTER XVIII.
An Exploration — Equipment — Outfit — Departure — Results — Features of Coast — Architectural Rocks — Three Brother Turrets — Tennyson's Monument — The Great Glacier of Humboldt

CHAPTER XIX.
Progress of the Party — Prostration — Dallas Bay — Death of Schubert — The Brig in May — Progress of Spring — McGary's Return — Dr. Hayes's Party — Equipment — Schubert's Funeral

CHAPTER XX.
Seal-hunting — Sir John Franklin — Resources — Acclimatization — The Hope — Dr. Hayes's Return — His Journey — Snow- blindness — Cape Hayes — The Dogs tangled — Mending the Harness — Capes Leidy and Frazer — Dobbin Bay — Fletcher Webster Headland — Peter Force Bay — New Parties — Their Orders — Progress of Season — The Seal — The Netsik and Usuk — A Bear — Our Encounter — Change in the Floe

CHAPTER XXI.
Progress of Season — Plants in Winter — Birds Returning — Cochlearia — The Plants

CHAPTER XXII.
Mr. Bonsall's Return — His Story — The Bear in Camp — His Fate — Bears at Sport — The Thaws

CHAPTER XXIII.
Morton's Return — His Narrative — Peabody Bay — Through the Bergs — Bridging the Chasms — The West Land — The Dogs in Fright — Open Water — The Ice-foot — The Polar Tides — Capes Jackson and Morris — The Channel — Free of Ice — Birds and Plants — Bear and Cub — The Hunt — The Death — Franklin and Lafayette — The Antarctic Flag — Course of Tides — Mount Parry — Victoria and Albert Mountains — Resume — The Birds appear — The Vegetation — The Petrel — Cape Constitution Theories of an Open Sea — Illusory Discoveries — Changes of Climate — A Suggestion

CHAPTER XXIV
Prospects — Speculations — The Argument — The Conclusion — The Reconnoissance — The Scheme — Equipment of Boat-party — Eider Island — Hans Island — The Cormorant Gull — Sentiment — Our Charts — Captain Inglefield — Discrepancies — A Gale — Fast to a Floe

CHAPTER XXV
Working On — A Boat-nip — Ice-barrier — The Barrier Pack — Progress Hopeless — Northumberland Island — Northumberland Glacier — Ice-cascades — Neve

CHAPTER XXVI
The Ice-foot in August — The Pack in August — Ice-blasting — Fox-trap Point — warping — The Prospect — Approaching Climax — Signal-cairn — The Record — Projected Withdrawal — The Question — The Determination — The Result

CHAPTER XXVII
Discipline — Building Igloe — Tossut — Mossing — After Seal — On the young Ice — Going too far — Seals at Home — In the Water — In Safety — Death of Tiger

CHAPTER XXVIII
The Esquimaux — Larceny — The Arrest — The Punishment — The Treaty — "Unbroken Faith" — My Brother — Return from a Hunt — Our Life — Anoatok — A Welcome — Treaty confirmed

CHAPTER IX
Walrus-grounds — Lost on the Ice — A Break-up — Igloe of Anoatok — Its Garniture — Creature Comforts — Esquimaux Music — Usages of the Table — Bear and Cubs — A Hunt — Close Quarters — Bear-fighting — Bear-habits — Rats — The Terrier Fox — The Arctic Hare — A Wolf — Dogs and wolves — Bear and Fox — Winter Quarters — Morton's Return — The Light.

CHAPTER XXX
Morton's Journey — The Hut — Walrus Hunt — The Contest — The Victory — The Jubilee — A Sipak

CHAPTER XXXI.
An Aurora — The Arctic Firmament — Esquimaux Astronomy — Meteoric Shower — A Bear — Hasty Retreat — The Cabin by Night — Sickness increasing The Night Watch

CHAPTER XXXII
Bonsall's Return — Return of withdrawing Party — Esquimaux Escort — On Fire — Christmas — A Journey Ahead — Setting Out — A Dreary Night — Striking a light — End of 1854.

CHAPTER XXXIII.
Modes of Life — Dog Habits — Darkness — Plan of Journey

CHAPTER XXXIV
A Breakdown — The Hut in a Storm — Two Nights in a Hut — The Back Track — Health Failing — Unsuccessful Hunt.

CHAPTER XXXV
The Fire-clothed Bag — The Wraith — Cookery — A Respite — The Coming Dawn — The Trust — Prospects — Colored Skies

CHAPTER XXXVI
The Bennesoak — A Dilemma — The Sun — End of February Our Condition — Moonlight — The Landscape

CHAPTER XXXVII
The Resorts — The Sick — The Rat in the Insect-box — Han's Return — Famine at Etah — Walrus Tackle — The Heat Diet
CHAPTER XXXVIII
Line of Open Water — Awahtok — His First-born — Insubordination — The Plot — The Development — The Desertion

CHAPTER XXXIX
Colloquy in the Bunks — Winter Travel — Preparations — Reindeer Feeding-grounds — Terraced Beaches — A Walk — Occupations

CHAPTER XL
The Delectable Mountains — Review of March — The Deserter again — His Escape — Godfrey's Meat — Convalescent

CHAPTER XLI
Routine — Getting up — Breakfast — Work — Turning in — Hans still missing — The Determination

CHAPTER XLI Amico — Explanation — Further Search — Maturing Plans — Chances of Escape — Food plenty — Paulik — Famine among the Esquimaux — Extinction — Light Hearts — Deserter recovered

CHAPTER XLIII
Hartstene Bay — Esquimaux Dwellings — A crowded Interior — The Night's Lodging — A Morning Repast — Mourning for the Dead — Funeral Rites — Penance

CHAPTER XLIV
The Esquimaux of Greenland — Change of Character — Labors of the Missionaries — Noluk — The Ominaks — Pingeiak and Jens — The Angekoks — Husutoks — The Imnapok — The Decree

CHAPTER XLV
Walrus-hunting — Esquimaux Habits — Return to Etah — Preparing for Escape — Making Sledges — Dr. Hayes

CHAPTER XLVI. Kalutunah — The Hunting-party — Setting out — My Tallow-ball--A Wild Chase — Hunting still — The Great Glacier — The Escaladed Structure — Formation of Bergs — The Viscous Flow — Crevasses — The Frozen Water-tunnel — Cape Forbes — Face of Glacier

CHAPTER XLVII. Cape James Kent — Marshall Bay — Ice-rafts — Striated Boulders — Dallas Bay — Antiquities — The Bear-chase — The Bear at Bay — The Single Hunt — Teeth-wounds — The last Effort — Close of the Search

CHAPTER XLVIII
Preparations for Escape — Provisions — Boats — The Sledges — Instruments and Arms — Cooking-apparatus — Table-furniture — Cradling the Boats — The Sledges moving The Recreation..

CHAPTER XLIX
The Pledges — The Argument — Farewell to the Brig — The Muster — The Routine — The Messes

CHAPTER L
The Sick-hut — To First Ravine — Moving the Sick — The Healthstation — Convalescence

CHAPTER LI. To the Brig again — Welcome at the Hut — Log of the Sledges — Educated Faith — Good-bye to the Brig — Metek's Prayer

CHAPTER LII
New Stations — The Ice-marshes — Point Security — Oopegsoak — Catching Auks — Aniuguah — Nessark

CHAPTER LIII
The Game of Ball — My Brother's Lake — The Polar Seasons — Fate of the Esquimaux — The Esquimaux Limits — Esquimaux Endurance — Awahtok's Hunt — His Escape — The Guardian Walrus

CHAPTER LIV
The Bakery — The Guitar Ghost — The Boat-camp — Nessark's Wife — Out in a Gale — Cape Misery — The Burrow — The Retreat.

CHAPTER LV
Fresh Dogs — The Slides — Rocking-stones — Ohlsen's Accident — Ice-sailing Mounting the Belt — The Ice-marshes — Pekiutlik -- Hans the Benedick

CHAPTER LVI. The Red Boat sinking — The Life-boat Cache — The Open Water — Ohlsen's Death — His Funeral — Barentz, our Precursor — Accomodah — The Prescription — Cape Welcome — The Resolve

CHAPTER LVII.
The Farewell — Attempt to embark

CHAPTER LVIII
Sutherland Island — Hakluyt Island — Northumberland Island — Fitz-Clarence Rock — Dalrymple Rock — Giving out — Break-up of the Floe — Broken down — Weary Man's Rest — The Fourth — Short Commons

CHAPTER LIX
A Look-out — Providence Halt — The Glacier — Providence Diet

CHAPTER LX
The Crimson Cliffs — The Esquimaux Eden — Depression of the Coast — Inventory — Imalik — Losing our Way — At the Rueraddies — The Open Sea — Effects of Hunger — Rescue of the Faith

CHAPTER LXI
The Seal ! the Seal ! — The Festival — Terra Firma — Paul Zacharias — The Fraulein Flaischer — The News — At the Settlements ---The Welcome

CONCLUSION

APPENDIX.Sketch of the life of Dr. Kane




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